Trnovačko Lake has a natural heart shape, making it one of the most recognisable lakes in the entire Balkans. Surrounded by mountain massifs whose peaks exceed 2,000 metres – Maglić, Volujak, Bioč, and Trnovački Durmitor – this lake looks as though someone deliberately hid it from the rest of the world. And it is precisely that remoteness that makes it so appealing to anyone seeking something different from the usual tourist destinations.
Where Is Trnovačko Lake and What Makes It So Special
Location and Natural Setting
If you look at a map of northwestern Montenegro, you will find Trnovačko Lake right on the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina, just three kilometres from the state line. It belongs to the municipality of Plužine and is part of the Piva Nature Park – the first nature park declared in Montenegro, established in 2015. This park serves as a natural bridge between two national parks: Durmitor in Montenegro and Sutjeska in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
The lake itself is 825 metres long, 715 metres wide, and reaches a maximum depth of about nine metres. Along the shore, the water is extremely shallow – around half a metre to one metre – which makes for a refreshing swim during the summer months. What sets Trnovačko Lake apart from every other mountain lake in the region is, of course, its heart-shaped form, entirely natural, best seen from the surrounding ridges.
Water Colour and Seasonal Changes
Did you know this lake changes colour every day? Depending on the time of day and the angle at which sunlight hits the surface, the water shifts from turquoise to blue-green, all the way to deep blue. During winter, the lake freezes over completely, and snow at these altitudes can linger well into June.
How to Get to Trnovačko Lake: Trails and Routes
The question everyone asks before setting off is: how do you actually reach this lake? The answer is simple – on foot only. There is no gravel road or any vehicle access, which means you should expect a minimum of one and a half to six hours of walking, depending on the route you choose.
The Prijevor Trail (Easiest Approach)
Most visitors choose the trail starting from Prijevor, a plateau on the Montenegro-Bosnia border, accessible by car from Tjentište through Sutjeska National Park. From Prijevor to the lake takes roughly two hours of moderate walking. The trail is well-worn and marked, passing through wooded areas, meadows with wild raspberries, and across Suva Jezerina – a basin where a large lake once existed before drying up.
We recommend this route to all first-time visitors, as it is the easiest physically and offers an excellent introduction to this part of the mountains. Along the way, you will pass a small sign nailed to a pine tree marking the border between Montenegro and Bosnia – with no border crossing in sight.
The Trail from Plužine, Mratinje Village (More Demanding Route)
On the Montenegrin side, a trail from Mratinje village leads to the lake, and this route requires good preparation. Right at the start you will come across a spring of drinking water – we suggest filling every bottle you have. The next water source awaits three to four hours later, located right beside the trail before the viewpoint where the lake first comes into view. The path then passes through beech forest, then pine forest, each phase bringing a completely different atmosphere and scent. When you finally emerge from the forest, Carev Do opens up – a spacious plateau from which you begin to sense just how close you are to the lake.
This route from Plužine is considerably more demanding and longer – expect five to six hours of walking with significant elevation gain. However, for experienced hikers, this trail offers a far richer experience, passing through more varied terrain and providing an entirely different perspective on the entire massif.
Recommended Departure and Useful Resources
Regardless of which route you choose, we suggest starting early in the morning to avoid the hottest part of the day and arriving at the lake while the light is ideal for photography. Here is a brief overview of both main routes:
- Prijevor (via Tjentište) – about 2 hours of walking, moderate difficulty, ideal for families and recreational hikers
- Plužine/Mratinje – 5-6 hours of walking, significant ascent, physically demanding trail, well marked
Trnovačko Lake map – the official Piva Nature Park website offers plenty of information: maps with marked trails, GPS coordinates, and useful terrain details. Apps such as Komoot and AllTrails also have reviews from other hikers that can be very helpful.
Mount Maglić: The Peak of the Adventure Above the Lake
Climbing Maglić: From Lake to Summit
Once you reach the lake, it would truly be a shame not to take the opportunity to climb Maglić – the mountain that dominates the entire area. At 2,386 metres above sea level, Maglić is also the highest peak in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and one of the trails to its summit starts right from Trnovačko Lake. That trail is about five kilometres long, and the view from the top is something that is hard to put into words.
Mount Maglić attracts experienced hikers from across the region, and the Prijevor-Maglić route is considered one of the tougher approaches to the summit. The ascent from the lake takes an additional two to three hours, depending on pace and weather conditions. Pay special attention to sudden weather changes at these altitudes – even in July, the temperature can drop sharply, and fog appears practically from nowhere.
Surrounding Peaks and Perućica Primeval Forest
Besides Maglić, the surrounding peaks of Volujak, Bioč, and Trnovački Durmitor offer additional challenges for those who want to spend multiple days in the mountains. In the immediate vicinity, at the foot of Mount Maglić, lies the Perućica primeval forest – one of the last primeval forests in Europe, with endemic plant and animal species that have survived centuries untouched by human influence.
Camping at Trnovačko Lake: A Night Under the Stars
The Experience of Spending the Night by the Lake
If you truly want to experience the full magic of this place, one afternoon is simply not enough. Camping at Trnovačko Lake is something most visitors describe as one of the most beautiful outdoor experiences of their lives. Imagine a night by the lake, a campfire, a starry sky with no light pollution whatsoever, and a morning where you are woken by birdsong instead of a phone alarm.
Camping is permitted in the immediate surroundings of the lake, and most people pitch their tents on the meadows above the shore. There is no organised campsite with infrastructure, meaning you must bring everything you need – including food, a sleeping bag, and equally importantly, bags for carrying out all your rubbish. This is a protected area and preserving nature is every visitor’s responsibility.
Tips and Rules for Campers
Another reason many choose to camp is that from the lake, the next morning they can set off to climb Maglić or tour the surrounding peaks without any rush. Trnovačko Lake is, in fact, a classic starting point for multi-day hiking tours in this part of the Dinarides. Here are a few tips for those planning to camp:
- Bring warm clothing – nights at 1,500 metres can be cold even in summer
- Drinking water is available – right next to the Piva Nature Park facility
- Leave no trace – take everything you bring back with you
- Campfires are permitted only at designated spots, with a fee of 5 euros – for exact locations and other details, contact the local park ranger
Accommodation Nearby: Where to Stay If You Don’t Camp
Cabin and Bivouac at the Lake
Of course, camping is not the only option. For those who prefer a bed and a roof over their head, there is a cabin – a bivouac that can accommodate about eight people near the lake. For availability, price, and reservations, you need to contact the park ranger in advance, as spots are limited and fill up quickly during the season.
Plužine, as the nearest town, is a logical base for exploring the area. Built on the shore of Piva Lake, Plužine offers basic services, shops, restaurants with local cuisine, and a tourist information centre open from May to October. From there, you can organise day or multi-day trips to the lake and surrounding mountains.
Plužine and Rafting Camps as a Base
If you prefer something more authentic, rafting camps on the banks of the Tara and Piva rivers combine bungalow accommodation with packages that include a visit to Trnovačko Lake, rafting, meals with homemade food, and licensed guide services. These packages are an excellent solution for anyone who wants an organised experience without worrying about logistics.
What to Do at the Lake and in the Surrounding Area
At the Lake: Swimming, Fishing, and Walking
Besides hiking and camping, Trnovačko Lake offers several more activities worth mentioning. During summer, the water temperature reaches a pleasant 20 degrees, quite enough for a quick swim and cool-down after a long walk. The circular trail around the lake is 2,800 metres long and offers the chance to see it from different angles – each providing a different perspective on the heart shape.
For fishing enthusiasts, the lake is rich in fish and suitable for fly fishing, with a licence required, available from the local ranger. Nearby katuns (seasonal shepherd settlements) on Volujak offer homemade products such as cheese, kajmak, and honey – a chance to taste something you will not find in city shops.
Wider Adventures in Piva Nature Park
In the wider area of Piva Nature Park, activities are practically unlimited. The rivers Tara, Piva, and Komarnica with their canyons offer rafting, kayaking, Via Ferrata Piva, and zip-lining. For those who prefer a calmer pace, there are viewpoints such as Babina Greda overlooking Piva Lake and the surrounding mountains, horse riding, and jeep safari through untouched terrain.
Tjentište and Sutjeska National Park: Gateway to the Adventure
Tjentište as a Starting Point
Most visitors heading to Trnovačko Lake pass through Tjentište, the centre of Sutjeska National Park in Bosnia and Herzegovina. This is the starting point for the trail via Prijevor and an ideal place for a brief stop before or after visiting the lake. Sutjeska National Park itself is one of the oldest in all of Southeastern Europe and preserves natural areas that can rarely be seen elsewhere on the continent.
Perućica Primeval Forest and Skakavac Waterfall
Among them is the Perućica primeval forest, where beech and fir trees reach heights of over 60 metres, and Skakavac Waterfall, at 75 metres high, is one of the most impressive natural features in the region. If your schedule allows, definitely set aside a day to visit Perućica – it is an experience that perfectly complements a visit to the lake.
A Popular Multi-Day Hiking Route
The combination of Tjentište – Prijevor – Trnovačko Lake – Maglić forms one of the most popular multi-day hiking routes in the entire region. The opportunity to visit two national parks and one of the most beautiful lakes in the Balkans in a single tour is what makes this area exceptionally attractive to serious hikers and adventurers.
Practical Tips for Visiting Trnovačko Lake
Season and Weather Conditions
Before you set off, here are a few concrete pieces of information to help you plan your visit without unpleasant surprises. The ideal time to visit is from June to September, when trails are passable and the water temperature allows for swimming. An earlier visit (May, early June) may mean snow on higher parts of the trail, while late autumn brings short days and cold mornings.
Gear and Physical Preparation
As for gear, hiking boots are mandatory regardless of how easy the trail looks on paper. The terrain can be slippery, rocky, and uneven, and trainers simply do not provide enough protection. Bring at least two litres of water per person, enough food for the whole day, sun protection, and a light wind jacket, as conditions in the mountains change quickly.
Directions and Key Information
For anyone looking for how to get to Trnovačko Lake from different directions, find it on google map. From Podgorica, via Plužine to Prijevor, the drive takes about four and a half hours, while from Sarajevo to Tjentište the journey is somewhat shorter. Here is a brief overview of the most important practical information:
- Season: June-September (optimal), visits possible outside the season with appropriate gear
- Gear: hiking boots, enough water and food, warm clothing, rain protection
- Access: on foot only, minimum 1.5 hours of walking from the nearest vehicle access point
- Permits: fishing licence required from the local ranger; Piva Nature Park entry according to the current price list
Trnovačko Lake: A Place You Will Never Forget
What Gives This Lake Its Special Value
In the end, what actually makes Trnovačko Lake so special that people keep coming back? It is not just the heart shape, although that is undeniably striking. It is not just the water colour that changes throughout the day, nor the fact that you are surrounded by mountains higher than 2,000 metres. What gives this lake its special value is the combination of all of that with the fact that you cannot reach it easily – you have to earn it by walking.
Who Is This Experience Ideal For
As we have already said, Trnovačko Lake is part of the Piva Nature Park and is located in the municipality of Plužine, in the heart of one of the best-preserved parts of Montenegro. Whether you are coming as an experienced hiker aiming for the summit of Maglić, as a couple seeking a romantic escape into nature, or simply as someone who wants to spend a night under the open sky far from everything – this place has an answer to each of those wishes.
Pack your backpack, lace up your hiking boots, and head for one of the most beautiful lakes in the Balkans. Trnovačko Lake is waiting for you, up there, at 1,517 metres, in the shape of a heart.
